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Unfinished surfaces:

• For raw woods, you need to seal the wood so that it doesn’t soak up your paints and cause your coat to look uneven. (As a bonus, it will also cover dark spots and knots in the wood and not allow them to show through your paint.) An oil-based primer works well on sealing interior woods and also provides a smooth surface that allows your paint to adhere.
• For unfinished drywall, use a PVA primer to cover joint compound and provide a smooth surface for your paint.

Stained surfaces:

• Oil-based primers work best on water-based stains, such as inks, foods and smoke.
• Water-based primers work best on oil-based stains, such as grease, lipstick and crayons.
• Shellac-based primers work best for stains that come from severe smoke or water damage. They also keep stains from producing odors.

Previously painted surfaces:

• If you’re painting lighter color over a dark color, use a quality primer to cover the darker hue and provide a nice, light surface for your topcoat. Two or more coats of primer may be necessary depending on the color you’re covering.
• If you’re painting a darker shade over a lighter shade, use a tintable primer. This provides a good surface for your topcoat, while also preventing the old color from bleeding through.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

There is no right or wrong color, but here are some simple tips:

• Take your furniture and window treatments into consideration. There’s nothing like spending all of that time, effort and money on painting a room only to realize that it doesn’t match the tone of the rest of the room.
• Collect pictures from magazines and the internet. When you decide to paint a room, don’t jump right in. Start to look through other people’s choices until you find a combination you think will complement your own style and furnishings.
• Use color cards. Take a trip to your local Westlake and grab some color cards that you like. Take them home and put them next to your couch, your bedspread, your curtains – anything that will start to give you an idea of what matches and what doesn’t. Reminder: color on a wall is usually a lot more powerful than on the color card. It’s not a bad idea to go a shade or two lighter than the color you like on a card.
• Pick the right white. Not all whites are actually white. True white is a very harsh color in most rooms. It’s simply too bright and sterile. Most whites have a hint of tan, pink or blue. Those are usually better for most homes than true white.
• Know what colors can do for a room. If you want to warm up a room, try shades of reds, oranges or yellows. If you want to cool a room, go with blues, greens and grays.
• Test before you paint. Buy a small amount of paint in the complementary colors you like (one for trim, one for the walls). Paint a board with each shade of paint beside the other to see how they look together. You can also use a small section of wall in the actual room you’ll be painting. This may help you visualize the color scheme in context a little better than a painted board.
• Test again. Try a couple of different colors. Try dozens more if you need. By buying small amounts of paint and testing them, you could save yourself the time and money of painting a room, not liking the results and painting again.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.<-->

All of those terms refer to the different sheens available in your paint aisle. The more sheen, the more the paint will reflect light and seem to shine. Gloss has the highest sheen, while flat (which is sometimes called “matte”) has very little or no sheen.

Sheen is also a good indicator of stain resistance and how washable a coat of paint will be. Glossy finishes are much more stain-resistant than satin and flat. Gloss is also very easy to wipe down and wash, while low-gloss paints take a little more effort to clean. This makes higher gloss paints very useful in kitchens, bathrooms and some dining rooms. They also make for striking entrances, such as front doors.

One thing to consider: along with the sheen, the general quality of the paint is also a consideration in stains and washability. A good quality satin may be more stain-resistant and washable than a low-quality semi-gloss.

A downside of gloss paints is their reflectivity. Reflective finishes make imperfections in a wall surface much more obvious than low-sheen paints. A satin (or “eggshell”) finish is much more forgiving of holes and patches than a paint with more sheen. Low-sheen paints such as satin or flat are good on walls that have a lot of holes or holes that have been filled in. Family rooms, living rooms and bedrooms are all places where artwork and mirrors have been hung over time, so low-sheen paints work well to disguise those holes. Satin is also well-suited for the trim and molding in any room.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

If you're hosting upcoming holiday parties, you want your home to look its best. If the wood table has watermarks, the dining room chairs are wobbly, or the couch's upholstery is unsightly, consider doing some furniture "TLC."

Easy, minor touch-ups can make your furniture look like new, and your local Westlake Hardware store has the products you need to give your furniture a fresh look.

Here are several furniture fix-up suggestions to get your home ready for holiday entertaining:

Repair a Wobbly Chair

If a chair is so wobbly that there's an old paperback jammed under the leg for balance, it's time for a repair. Knock the loose joint apart with a hammer. Then, with sandpaper or steel wool, remove any old glue from both parts that need to be reattached. If the glue is difficult to take off, try adding vinegar to it. Spread wood glue on both surfaces and then, using a wood clamp or tourniquet, apply pressure on the chair joint for 24 hours allowing the glue ample time to dry. Adding a small screw to the joint will assure a tight hold.

Fix a Furniture Spindle

If your chair's spindle is separated from its socket because of playful pets or years of use, you can re-secure it with a little elbow grease. Use a high-speed cutter to thoroughly remove old glue from the rung and inside of the socket. Then coat the end of the spindle and the inside of the socket with carpenter's glue, and wrap silk thread around the end of the spindle. Clamp and let settle overnight.

Remove Residue from Wood

Some common residue can be removed without the help of a professional furniture refinisher. Bear in mind, though, that you should always test your remedy in a small, inconspicuous area first just to be sure it doesn't damage the finish. For watermarks and rings caused by cups without coasters, use a wood amalgamator like Howard's Restore-A-Finish or Formby's Conditioning Furniture Refinisher. Use with #0000 steel wool. The more zeros in the code, the finer the weave is. Drench the wool and squeeze out lightly. Apply pressure with the grain, and your woodwork will look like new again. Finish by wiping clean with a tack cloth.

Cloths referred to as white ring removers also work to remove marks caused by heat and water and even minor scratches and will not remove finish from the wood surface.

If candle wax is the culprit, harden the substance by holding an ice cube wrapped in cloth against it. Then, use a plastic credit card or a dull knife to scrape it off. Rub the wax with an extra-fine steel wool dipped in mineral spirits, wipe dry and set with wax or polish.

Upholding Your Upholstery

Many furniture fabrics carry an upholstery code, usually found on a label under the cushions, which gives specific instructions on the proper methods for cleaning that fabric type. Typically, vacuuming and light brushing to remove dirt and grime is recommended as well as spot cleaning with an upholstery shampoo or mild solvent.

Always patch testing the cleaner on the fabric first to ensure it doesn't shrink or discolor. It's a good idea to treat leather every year or so with a leather oil or conditioner. These products will keep the leather from cracking and remain more pliable to avoid rips and tears.

Credit: Lou Manfredini's Tips From the Tool Box, Ace Hardware

Oil-based – or alkyd-based paints – have chemicals or resins in them that evaporate once the paint dries. This allows them to go on a little thicker and provide a better coverage on the first coat.

Tips for oil-based paint application.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

For the best results:

• Sand down any varnishes or stains that were previously on the surface.
• Clean the surface you’re varnishing/staining.
• Thoroughly clean the space where you’re varnishing/staining so that no dust particles get into the finished piece.
• Stir your varnish. Don’t shake it. Shaking causes air bubbles in the varnish which can easily transfer onto your finished piece.

Want to learn more about varnishes and stains?

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

If your deck was previously coated with a solid stain, use a putty knife or sharp blade to lightly cut a small "X" in several spots on your deck (in high and low-traffic areas), but be careful to not cut into the wood. Then cover those "X" marks with duct tape and rub down firmly. Quickly peel up the tape. If there are flakes of your stain on the tape, then you will need to strip your deck before restraining.

If your deck was previously coated with a semi-transparent stain or sealer, clean it well and let it air dry for at least four hours. Then from a standing position pour a small amount of water on the decking in high traffic areas as well as lesser-used areas. If the water beads up (breaks up into tiny drops) and just sits there, then too much sealer is present and you will need to strip it.  If the water remains in a puddle and begins to absorb into the wood within 10 minutes then the coating has worn off enough that youcan re-stain or re-seal.

Check your railings as well since coatings on vertical surfaces last much longer than those on your horizontal deck boards.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

You don't have to be a professional painter to get results like one. Preparation is nearly 90 percent of the job, so when you're ready to start the project, consider these professional tips:

Preparing the surface

Anything in the room not being painted should be removed or covered up, including furniture, light fixtures, vent covers and outlet covers. Apply a good masking tape to protect baseboards, door and window trim, crown molding and  any other surfaces not receiving paint. To protect flooring, lay down a canvas or thick-mil plastic drop cloth.

When painting over an existing semi- or full-gloss finish, the surface must be sanded to give the new paint something to adhere to (paint adheres better to rough surfaces than smooth ones). Smooth over cracks and other surface imperfections with spackle and a putty knife, and then sand smooth. Viewing the surface from an angle will reveal any spots that may have been missed.

The entire surface to be painted should be washed with tri sodium phosphate (TSP) or a mixture of water and bleach (or other detergent) in a 2:1 ratio. This should dry completely before working with the surface again. Finally, apply a primer coat such as Ace Stain Halt to round out the prep process.

Choosing a paint

Latex paints are the primary paints used for painting non-metallic surfaces inside the home such as walls and ceilings. Be aware of the differences in finishes:

Flat - Ideal for low-traffic areas; matte coating shows a color's "true hue" and hides imperfections well. Ace Sensations(TM) with Scotchgard(TM) Protector is the flat paint that cleans like a semi-gloss, so you can use it in higher-traffic areas. What's more, it's mold resistant, so it can be used in high-moisture areas such as kitchens and bathrooms, too!

Eggshell - Smooth, washable finish with a very slight sheen; ideal for living rooms, hallways, bedrooms and dens.

Satin - A bit more washable than eggshell with a similar sheen; ideal for most rooms.

Semi-gloss - Smooth and washable medium sheen; ideal for bedrooms, kitchens and children's rooms.

Gloss - The highest shine of any finish, very washable; well-suited for trimwork, doors and windows and areas that receive frequent abuse.

Tools of the trade

If you have all necessary tools "at the ready," you won't have to leave halfway through your project because you forgot a crucial item. For latex paints, synthetic-fiber bristle brushes in a variety of flat and angled tips will take care of the trim and detail work.

A good hard-core roller cover and roller cage will speed the job up and reduce the appearance of brush strokes. Don't forget a good paint tray for that roller, an extra roller cover and a 6-in-1 tool for cleaning up these items when the job is done.

It's good to invest in the highest quality roller covers and brushes. These are worth the extra cost in the money and time you will save down the road. Quality roller covers will resist matting down and will hold more paint without dripping, reducing the amount of paint used and the number of coats required for even coverage. Brushes will also apply paint more smoothly, requiring fewer layers to conceal brushstrokes. Higher quality rollers and brushes resist "shedding" and last longer as well.

Painting is a process

Cutting the edges involves outlining the area to be painted with a 2 1/2" angled-bristle brush and is a crucial step in "framing the canvas." Edges should be cut around doors and windows, above baseboards and at the line where the  ceiling meets the wall. From there, a roller can be used for most of the rest of the job.

When painting with a roller, it's important to work in three- to four-foot square sections to make the job more manageable. This also works as a guide for "roller loading" - a roller should not be reloaded until the section has been finished.

Work in a zig-zag pattern: A "W" should be painted on the surface from top to bottom and left to right. From there, the section should be filled with horizontal strokes. To finish off, the section should be smoothed with all-vertical strokes - this will maintain the same "pattern" and help to fuse the smaller sections into one finished surface when the paint is dry. For complete coverage, two coats are almost always recommended.

Credit:  Lou Manfredini's Tips From the Tool Box, Ace Hardware

You shouldn’t just buy expensive paint, you should buy quality paint. Often, quality paints do cost a little more. However, that cost is often offset by how much paint you’ll actually need for your project. Better quality paint often coats thicker, which means you need fewer coats than a thinner paint.

Application time and cost isn’t the only feature of a higher quality paint. Those paints will also last longer on your walls, saving you time and money when it comes to needing a fresh coat.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Yes. High-quality paint that has low volatile organic compounds (VOCs) is just as good as traditional paint on your walls and even better for your home’s air quality.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Natural bristles are best for most oil-based finishes including varnishes and stains. Their soft tips leave fewer brush marks.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the North American Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Remove everything from your deck and sweep off all dirt and debris. Check all structural elements for damage. Replace any damaged boards, tighten any lose boards or screws and fix any nail pops.

There are the variety of deck cleaning products available. Some are detergents, others are bleaches, and still others are chemical solutions designed to react with certain woods. Whatever cleaner you choose, read and follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Many cleaners can be easily applied with a pump-style garden sprayer following the manufacturer's instructions. It's advisable to test in a small, less visible spot first before cleaning the entire deck.

Sometimes lightly watering down the deck can assist you in applying and spreading the cleaning solution. Many solutions should not be allowed to dry on the wood so periodic spraying/misting may be required. Depending on how dirty your deck is you may see results immediately. But many cleaning compounds require a few minutes to work before you see results.

Depending on the cleaner you select and the amount of algae on your deck, you can use a stiff brush with a long handle (typically a synthetic bristle brush since many cleaning solutions will deteriorate a natural bristle brush) and a regular garden hose or you can use a pressure washer.

Once you've cleaned your deck well, let it dry for 12 to 24 hours and you're ready to sand. Using a pole sander makes this job much easier and saves your knees. Use 120 to 150 grit sandpaper and sand in the direction of the wood grain. Most likely you won't need to sand your spindles or railings because vertical surfaces don't wear as fast. When the sanding is finished, use a leaf blower, broom or wet/dry vac to thoroughly remove the dust, and your deck is ready for staining. You should stain or seal it as quickly as possible after you have sanded to protect it from the elements.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.