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First, you’ll need to remove the old caulk using a utility knife. Cut along the bottom of the caulk nearest the tub, then cut the top along the tile. This won’t get all of the caulk, but you should be able to remove the majority.

Once you’ve pulled off the caulk, spread silicon caulk remover along the seam where you removed the caulk, along with any spots of caulk that you see outside of that seam.

Leave it for a few hours and then use a putty knife to go back and remove the rest of the caulk.

Wash your tub and then use rubbing alcohol to wipe down the seams where you removed the caulk. This will kill any residual mildew or mold.

Once it’s completely dry, run painter’s tape along the edges of the tub and wall, leaving room for your new caulk line – about ¼” from the seam on the wall and the tub.

Now fill your tub with water so that the weight of the water slightly separates the tub from the wall. This separation is minimal, but it’s normal. It occurs every time you fill the tub. And by filling the tub before you caulk, it means any stretching and cracking due to this separation will be minimal.

Caulk one line of the tub at a time. Start in one inside corner and caulk to the other inside corner of the tub along the back wall. After that, caulk from one corner to the outside of the tub. Repeat on the other side of the tub. For each caulk line, get your fingers damp and smooth out the caulk lines you’ve just applied. After 15 minutes, remove the painter’s tape.

Drain the tub. Then let the caulk dry for at least 24 hours before you use the tub.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Clay tiles are usually fairly soft and easy to drill through. Ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles and any glass tiles are harder to drill. These steps will make it easier and with less chance of ruining your material. Use only a diamond-encrusted carbide bit. A regular carbide bit should work on ceramic and porcelain, but the diamond-encrusted carbide is still recommended.

For Uninstalled Tile

• If you’re drilling through tile that isn’t already installed, use MDF board behind your tile for support while you drill.
• Make a mark with a pen or pencil where you want to drill
• Knead a ball of plumber’s putty, then roll it into one long piece. Wrap the long piece back on itself to create a ring around the mark.
• Smooth the putty and adhere it to the tile to form a seal. Place several drops of air tool oil in the middle of the ring of plumber’s putty. It should fill to almost halfway up the putty.
• Center your drill bit over the mark and begin slowly drilling. The oil in the putty should always touch the bit, keeping it lubricated. Press down firmly, but gently.
• Once the bit has drilled through the harder top layer of clay, ceramic or porcelain, it should glide through the rest of the material with ease. (For glass, your resistance will remain the same throughout, but you shouldn’t have any problems with consistent pressure and constant lubrication.)

For Installed Tile on a Vertical Surface

• Put a 2”x2” piece of masking tape in an "X" pattern over the area where you want to drill. The masking tape will prevent the drill bit from drifting or walking off the desired hole location.
• Use a pencil or pen to mark the spot where you want to drill.
• Using a center punch or awl, and hammer lightly tap the marked drill location to make a minor chip on the surface of the tile. Again, this will help to ensure the drill bit will not wander.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and safety of this information. Neither Westlake nor any contributor can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.